POKHARA
& GETTING READY FOR THE HIKE
Well,
I arrived in Pokhara after a super wonderful car trip among rice fields, mountains and rivers. I was
extremely lucky to have this ride.
When I was in Kathmandu and I told the guys
in the hotel I wanted to go to Pokhara, they said to me, wait until tomorrow at
5PM and then we will see what we can find you… as a note, there us a a very bad
situation going on in Nepal right now with the Indian border closed due to some
political conflicts and this means that there is no fuel coming in to the
country since September.
This is a huge impact for the economy of Nepal in a
very bad year after the Earthquake. No petrol means almost no tourist during
the peak season, no medicine, no food in some places, people have to go back to
cook with wood. The only way to get petrol and gas is in the black market and
hence the rice on prices. The priority of petrol goes first to medicine
distribution and second to tourists… I felt bad, but ok, on the other hand
tourism is one of the biggest sources of income of the country so by me being
here and using the black market petrol I am kind of helping them.
So,
back to the story, the guy of the hotel sent me a message that his partner is
going to Pokhara to pick up some tourist and I could go and use the ride for
free! :) Wow! Really, so, so lucky :) …. My a bit worrisome mind
made me ask if it was safe, if they may be joking and kidnap me on the way…
hey, you never know, the guys just couldn’t stop laughing and neither did I!
They said, Lud, this is Nepal, here people help each other, so of course it is
safe, we just like to help you as well…. Jajaja I felt very lucky, like all
this collection of positive energy is kind of working out, at least in small
things!
Very
happy I jumped on the car with a very nice driver who stopped for me to make
pictures on the way of the incredible Annapurna Range…. Stunning views!
When
we arrived to Pokhara, I decided to stay in the place where he was picking up
his guests: ‘’ Royal Guesthouse’’ and it was a wonderful choice. I got a super
big room with balcony for 10 CHF, loved it! And specially Pramila and her
husband working there. In every place I always make sure to feel good energy
and be surrounded by nice and happy people, if I don’t feel it, I leave.
I
had a super nice day and immediately felt good and in peace :) This place its wonderful and in a way it made me feel like
home with the big lake and the mountains.
I
went for a walk and on the way I stopped to make some pictures for the hiking
permit. So funny, the Nepali man doing the pics had green eyes… I was a bit
confused…. How is that possible? Or is he really Nepali?! Anyway, it doesn’t
matter, it called my attention and he was a really nice and funny man.
The
street, just behind the lake, its full of shops and small cafes and
restaurants. It is a mix of old and new and to my eyes, much more developed
than I expected. I have to say, I love the vibe of this place with lots of yoga
and meditation places and classes, everywhere!
On the way back I took the lake
promenade and really enjoyed the view of the mountains, the sunset and all the
fisherman and friends who seem to gather at this time of the day.
I had an
interesting chat with a Chilean artisan and a hippie Argentinean and went for
dinner to OM family which was a good choice as I met other 3 travelers and we
had a great time!
The
morning after I was ready to go for my two trekking permit and since yesterday I
started to think if I should do the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) for 7/8 days
instead of doing the Poon Hill of 4 days… I have the time and would love the
ABC, I know it, but not with a guide! So I took my permits and while in the
office met lots of other people who were going to do the ABC or the circuit on their
own :) so I went back to the guesthouse and asked Pramila’s
husband and many other people if they though I could do it on my own and they
all agreed it was fine for me to go and do it!!! Yuppy!!!! I love the freedom,
the challenge of going on my own and the adventure! This hike goes up to 4,100
m so not an issue with altitude sickness and seems much, much easier than the
EBC (Everest Base Camp) … I though a lot about it and said to myself, yes! You
can do this, go, go, go…. So much happiness! :)
I
couldn’t start to hike this day as it was to late, so I had another beautiful
day in Pokhara! I took a boat to the other side and hiked up to the World Peace
Pagoda! Wooooow!
The hike up was wonderful, super hot and around rainforest type
of vegetation, I just loved it! The views of the lake and Pokhara are stunning!
Once I reached the top I met a German guy, Claus, in his 50’s. I asked him
where the entrance of the Pagoda was and I immediately liked him. He is this
kind of people that transmits you peace and calmness, such bright eyes and
smile, it was a joy. We visited the Pagoda together, talked about Nepal and
Tibet, had some masala tea and really had a wonderful and peaceful time. He
told me he is vegetarian and that he started his meditation journey in
Kathmandu…. Maybe this is why he is so peaceful, honestly, it was such a
beautiful encounter.
On
the way back I decided to walk all the way. Incredible views all the timer! I
passed by the David Falls… mmmm… not really worth it but nice to see them and
specially to see how the Nepali school kids were enjoying the views… more than
I did…. Well, the rest of the day was about ‘’packing’’ my small 5 kilos bag
for the ABC adventure! I had a wonderful Dal Bhat in an Indian, Pure Vegetarian
place and happily fall asleep, looking forward to the unknown….
ABC DAY #1:
NAYAL PUR TO GHANDRUK (5/6 hours’ hike)
An easy walk followed by rain and some uncertainty
After
a nice simple breakfast, I took a taxi to my starting point: Nayal Pur! The
drive was incredible as I could appreciate all the snow peaked mountains!
Nayal
Pur its a small town, one street with some shops which were closed as it was
still quiet early. I was super lucky to meet two German girls who were starting
to hike with their guide just at the same time! Always good to meet new people
and of course not to hike alone!
It
was great fun to join them! Their guide was also super nice so we had no issues
in me walking with them. At some point I wanted to go faster as the rain was
coming so I ended up losing them.... a this after a delicious lunch with Dal Bhat!
The
hike was very easy today. A big part its along the river and its quiet flat
until the fun starts and you need to start going up. As the full day it is all
quite low, the type of views are more of farming life, school kids, vegetables
farms, animals and a lot of nice rice fields, waterfalls and small bridges.
I
was going up and the clouds were coming in and I was a bit worried as I don’t
like to walk in the rain, so I simply walked faster and made it to Ghandruk
around 3 or 3:30 PM…. A girl, which I think is French and who I saw on the way
with her guide went into a guesthouse, I could have checked there but I decided
to walk a bit higher in the village before settling despite the rain getting
stronger. A porter showed me a way to a random place, it was a little place
with three nice women who welcomed me. The issue was that there was no one and
it was rainy and a bit cold… I said, I just want to be where there are other
people… at that point I said to myself, why? , why am I doing this?! Why am I
alone?! Why Ludmila?! But well, these women were very nice and instead of
selling me their place, they told me just to go down again where I can surely
meet other people, they even say, don’t stay here! I love the honesty of Nepali
people, they are incredible!
I
went down and I tried to go in the guesthouse where the supposed French girl
was staying. The door was locked and they didn’t even let me in or come out to
talk to me. The started shouting closed, no space and making some signs with
their hands, with a cross. I found it super impolite! Come one people! You see
a girl alone, under the rain and don’t even go and see?!?! Pffff better don’t
stay there! So I went back and found the best place ever :) Simon Guesthouse. This place was wonderful, 300 Rs (which
later I learn it was expensive!) and I had a double bed plus a small one, hot
shower and I met really wonderful people.
I
have to say that I was not on my best when I got there but the little kids
started to hug me and dance around me so I felt so much better! I had a
wonderful hot shower and while drinking tea and having dinner I met a couple:
Eva, from Poland and Pablo from Czech Republic. They are super nice, we chatted
a lot. They are also travelling on their own which reassured me on my plans :)
I
went to bed early and had a really wonderful night of sleep… I did say to
myself, yes, I can do this, I can totally do this! And Goodnight! :)
ABC DAY #2: GHANDRUK
TO SINUWA (7 hours’ hike)
Wonderful scenery, lots of step and a beautiful unexpected
encounter
I
had an amazing night of sleep. Wow! Such a wonderful bed and cover and all of
it! I have to say I could hav slept much longer but I woke up at 6AM for a
6:30AM breakfast with sweet scrambled egg (I forgot to ask no sugar!) and chapatti,
I love it! :) While eating I met Eva and
Pablo and asked them if I could join them on the hike as they are super nice
and the way out of Ghandruk it’s a bit tricky. They were almost ready so I
stuffed my breakfast and joined them.
The
start of the hike was indeed a bit tricky as there are many different ways to
get out of this village and yes, we kind of got a bit lost after 30 or maybe
even 20 minutes of being out on the hiking path. We asked some locals and
followed their direction, although we knew they not always know the directions,
but will never say so :) eventually we found the
right way, yeha! The walk/hike was very nice, nothing really special or
different to what I do back in Switzerland…. Just the feeling of knowing I am
doing this alone and I’m in the middle of the Himalayas! Nice! After a small
tea break I started going ahead as I’m much faster (and younger) so I made it
to a lunch place before them.
There I met a group, well, a Canadian guy with the
most incredible blue eyes I’ve ever seen and really white teeth, jajajaj I
still wonder if they were fake, jajjaaj Anyway, nice guy, he lives in Dubai,
doing ABC with a little group of a father and her daughter and another girl he
met in Kathmandu for the hike. I may cross them again. After a noodle soup
lunch, we moved on. The path after was up and down. Like, not super challenging
but yes, very physical a we went up and down two valleys.. super nice! Small
villages, kids and lots of rice plantations all around!
After
a last climb up many, many, many, many stairs we made it to Sinuwa and it was
easy to find accommodation. Super nice place, the people were incredible and I
felt good in there immediately! In the room there was a nice frame with a
beautiful say…
I
took a hot shower, which was quit good and then just rested while talking with
Eva, Pablo and we met the German guy I met while I was doing the trekking
permits. As always I had my Dal Bhat and just before going to sleep I met two
wonderful brothers from Switzerland and we enjoyed a really, super nice time
talking and drinking mint tea and after some delicious masala tea, one of the
best I had!
Meeting
them, their company and stories were the best part of this day :) Pascal has been living in India for four years, he moved
there just one year after starting his work in CH, when the opportunity came,
he said yes, of course, it was not expected, as all best things in life! Now he
just finished his job and has incredible big dreams of travels like travelling
in his motorcycle though Tibet, China, Pakistan or Vietnam or Sri Lanka…endless
possibilities… before going back at some point next year. His younger brother,
Raphael also lives in Lausanne (incredible!), was insisting on Pascal going
back home, saying that even if he may think people back home don’t care about
him, this is absolutely not true! People do care and miss him…. He reminded me
so much of Pato and of course my family and friends back home as I do have the
same feelings sometimes… we talked a lot about how it feels to live in another
country, when you’re for some time split between different places, but no
where…. Interesting to have one of this conversations and also at the end
understand that family it’s important and that no matter in which culture, this
is something that matters…. I kind of also felt a bit bad that I am here, doing
this while I kind of cancelled my visit to Argentina this year…. I don’t know
now, while I write this, how I feel about it all….
What
I know and feel is that I am super happy to have met them, they’re actually the
nicest people I met so far in this trip. So happy, so full of life, positive
energy and beautiful thoughts, this night I went to bed with a big smile and a
very nice feeling!
ABC DAY #3:
SINUWA TO DEULARI (5 hours’ hike)
You just need the right people at the right time to be
happy!
Good
super early morning! I was up at 5:40 to have breakfast at 6 AM with Eva and
Pablo as we all wanted to start very early to avoid walking in the rain. We
left and quickly I kind of took over them as I felt I could go much faster than
they do and indeed I did and I lost track of them after a while… I really hope
they didn’t mind… so I was really quick, I couldn’t even believe it myself! The
start was a steep way down followed by an ‘angelating’ till I reached Himalaya
where I stopped for lunch.
The hike its nice but I have to say, nothing really wow so far…. It’s a hike down a valley and there is beautiful rainforest type vegetation with lots of bamboo, especially close to the village with this name. I did have one nice moment, like wow moment when the bamboo forest was kind of over and I was finally in the sun and blue sky above me, then I realised that I was surrounded by the Himalayan mountains, I felt tiny down the valley and surrounded by this gigantic and immense mountains, really incredible!
On
the way I had some guys passing me and I passed a lot of porters, yes, Love
it!!! At Himalaya I sat down with a group of three Australian friends, funny
people. It was nice to share lunch with them. They left and quickly after I
finished my Dal Bhat as I saw rain clouds coming…
... but before I met my favorite
Swiss brothers again! So happy to see them. I was kind of waiting for them to
arrive, so glad it happened! I kept going though as they needed to have lunch
and I’m sure I am way slower than they are!
So I walked up, not really hard and
I made it to Deulari at 3,200m… simple hike next to a beautiful river but the clouds
were kicking in, actually I was walking in the clouds…
Deulari it’s very small,
there are only three guesthouses… I asked in the first two and they had no room
so I guess I was lucky to find in this third place. The German guy is here, as
well as the girl I though she was French but she is actually from Belgium and
there are some other Easter European people... not very friendly… the
atmosphere it’s a bit bizarre…. It’s also cold, they have no hitting like in
the EBC and they keep the windows and doors open all the time, maybe to show
the ‘’shop it’s open?!’’ Why on earth would you do that when its freezing?!
Jajaj
I’m
not feeling great at the minute I write this… I do miss nice people around me
and nice talks, etc… I’m going to order some tea and try to get warm… I also
hope to get a blanket tonight! Come on Ludmila, don’t give up! One more day to
Base Camp! I can do it despite the cold, I can do it!
And
some time later… I am soo happy! My Swiss guys have arrived, so cool and we are
all sharing the room with the Belgium girl ad the German guy! Now I like this
place :) jajajaj Also Eva and Pablo made it to the same place. The
lemon honey tea also helped! Ok, off to chat and take a bit more of tea till
dinner at 6PM, wonderful!
ABC DAY #4:
DEULARI TO ABC
Emerging from the deep valley… but you still cannot see
where you’ve reached…
Well…
I have to say I didn’t have a very good night of sleep…I do regret big time not
having a proper sleeping bag.. seeing the guys and the Belgium girl, and the
German guy and absolutely everyone around here with proper ones… I really don’t
know what I was thinking about when I decided this… I got into my ‘’sleeping
bag’’ with two more covers on top… cold, toilet, cold… at some point I kind of
managed to fall asleep and feel a bitt war at least for a while… probably I
slept 4/5 hours on and off and my mind was going back and forth on deciding to
continue or just go down…. Like that million times…. I don’t know until when
that I woke up and the new day started and I unconsciously decided I am going
to continue with this amazing adventure, in Nepal there are always solutions,
always :)
Breakfast
was ok with some porridge… just would have been better if I wouldn’t have
dropped half of it on the table, jajjaj anyway the Swiss brothers are too
wonderful and kind of trek with them today, I do really like to be around
them!!
The
walking was really short. To MBC first it was finally nice, finally I could see
the big Himalayas around me, so so beautiful! We did talk abut the fact that
the Annapurna Circuit and the Everest Base Camp are much more impressive hikes
and this doesn’t really feel too WOW, impressive… on the other hand it is
realty beautiful nature around and something you don’t see everyday! I was
tired, the last clearly and I don’t know why I got super sweaty. Its kind of humid...
I go from hot to cold, my nose its dripping… but well, made it to MBC and we
got a delicious masala tea, like really good one!
Moving on to ABC it was about
1,5 hours and the most enjoyable part of the trip! I kind of went in a
‘’meditation’’ state of mind and the views of the Fish Mountain and the Annapurna
range were absolutely stunning! :)
There are lots of other
people at this part of the trek, lots of groups which made it feel like a big migration
up! And yes, we made it, there it was, the sign that we’re at the ABC at 4,130m
and to be very, very, very honest, I felt nothing… just yes! We made it, nice,
but not really any type of emotion… more fear…. Fear on later on how am I going
to pass through this night in the cold and it’s only 1:40PM while I am writing.
Well,
now its 3PM, I had to stop writing as I was really going to cry any time! But
no way! I am so so so super lucky and grateful to have really amazing people
with beautiful hearts around me and all willing to help me by providing their
blankets, clothing, bottles of warm water and probably anything else that it’s
available around!
In
one way, come on! I should be a big girl, I kind of did this to myself when I decided
to do this… I know it would be a bit cold but I think that I truly
underestimated it.. big time! If I would do it again I ‘d probably have at
least the best four seasons sleeping bag I could find, but on the other hand
this situation helps me to play with my limits and also with my self
sufficiency and accept that at the end, yes, sometimes, many times I will need
help and this is ok and doesn’t take down the pride or the courage of doing
this big adventure! Already just simply being here when this was not at all
plan it’s a big accomplishment in my ‘’Ludmila’’ world, now doing it like this,
its even more… I only see one other girl with a guide and that’s it. So indeed
there must be something special in me that pushes me this extraordinary life
experience… what it is… I don’t know…
There
was a funny situation with the three Aussie guys sitting outside. It was still
sunny then and I was all happy saying hey, so cool, let’s put the tables
together and do a big group, blab la bla and then when I look to the other
side, Pascal & Raphael were already inside the dining… well it was true, it
was cold and well really getting much colder very quickly… but really hard on
me, it was just really very funny! Of course I had an incredible Dal Bhat for
lunch and I really like to share the love for this food and the masala tea with
my lovely favorite people :) and we got an apple pie! Yummy!
And
yes, its almost 6PM and drank lots and lots of tea, we played cards, have some
good conversations about travelling in Pakistan, China, Tibet. A guy from
Pakistan has been doing some incredible travelling since August. I’m amazed and
Pascal is getting really good information for his big motorcycle ride across
the area, all pretty impressive, brave, incredible, it’s wonderful!
The
snow is pilling up outside while were about 30/40 people sitting in this
dinning, some Indian music in the background, some people are playing different
card games, some read, Eva and Pablo are super cozy in their sleeping bags
reading, German guy is playing a cards game on his mobile, Raphael is making
sketches, some Nepali people are drinking soup and we all share the cold, the
snow, the place…
I’m
worried of the cold and snow but I also know it will all at the end be more
than all right. It is really in this kind of moments that once more you realize
that people really make the difference and no ,matter where you are but if you
are surrounded by the good, nice, happy, positive, smiley people and you’re
also one of them, then life is wonderful, no matter where you are or how is the
weather… so I promise that at least until I try to go to sleep, I’m not going
going to say anymore that it’s cold or I’m cold, that its actually a useless
statement as we’re all the same, so better smile, do something and go with the
flow, take a Paracetamol if needed and smile, always, always smile!
So
funny just the Nepali guy behind me was drinking tea from the tea pot! Ha! We
were also planning to do a Harlem shake at some point. I just saw a person
outside using an umbrella… bizarre… others are making a snowman, really all
tiny funny things happening around make me happy! I just got asked to split a
dessert after dinner, some people come from the view point and me… well I super
enjoy writing and now… I’m off once ore to the toilet…. At least the steam it’s
warm…. Jajajjaja and maybe I meet…
I
don’t remember when I left the story yesterday but well, yes cold and lots of
fun! We had a nice dinner with the vegetable noodle soup which is becoming kind
of my typical dinner, lots of tea! At some point we realized that almost all
the people were gone, ah! No, before this the Nepalese put some cool Nepali
music that sounded more like Bollywood music and they started to dance… at the
end we didn’t join them, Jajaja… Masala tea was on its way and we all had
wonderful conversations, ended with how we’re part of a system in terms of
study + work in company + get promoted + get more money + etc and how we
measure success, which is kind of moving from becoming the director or CEO of a
big company to doing more meaning things in life, follow your dreams and
passions, have a life this was and be happy! By this time all the guides
started to make their beds on the dining so we kind of have to stop our chat
and more to bed… ouch! It was really cold! I got a blanket and Pascal got
another for me, great, thank you :)
When I go into the room, the
Belgium girl was all nice rapped in her super cool and big sleeping bag,
reading her kindle inside and she tells me, I’m so cold! I was like, are you
kidding me?!?!...
This night I didn’t even brushed my teeth as it was too
cold, so I just went into my ‘’summer’’ sleeping bag with the two blankets and
put my music to think about something else… cold, cold, cold… after some
minutes Pascal was calling me as he had something to give me. I said, cool,
Take anything! I stood up, opened the door and he gave me a hot water bag so I
can hit myself! WONDERFUL!!!! The best present of my life, that’s was a life
saver…. I will always thank you for that :) such a beautiful caring
gesture! I put it inside the sleeping bag to my feet, so warm, it was exactly
what I needed. And fun as well as I was rolling the bag up and down my body! Of
course I was sleeping with four layers of clothing, including my down jacket,
hat, neck thingy as well as gloves this time! Crazy! The good thing is that I
slept suuuuper good and once I heated up the bag and blankets I have to say to
my surprise that I was not even cold…. Thank you! :)
ABC DAY #5:
ABC TO JHINU
Once the storm is gone and you see the blue sky there is
only place for feeling happy, proud and grateful
Morning!
At 5:30 AM I woke up, quite well rested and found I could see the moon and stars,
wonderful! This was promising a great start of the day, so I got ready and
really was so so so happy! By 6 AM everyone was up and as soon as I go out,
wow! I opened my eyes and realized I was surrounded by the incredible Himalayan
mountains; the storm has gone to reveal this incredible view! And at this
moment I did feel so so so happy, I think I just couldn’t stop smiling… blue
sky, snow the peaks of the mountains start to light up!
Wow… a dream come true!
I waited for the guys and then we went to the view point… really WOW! I’m
standing in the middle of all these ‘’beauties’’, the sunlight is lighting the
top of Annapurna I and all the other gigantic mountains and I’m there and I
made it on my own, all the way! Of course with all the incredible people! But
hey! I took myself there! Below the Annapurna I there is a glacier. The view is
truly, truly majestic. Claus, the German man I met on top of the World Peace
Pagoda in Pokhara was right, there is this wow! Bumb! Moment when all stops and
a new day its starting in the majestic Himalayas. It was really beautiful and
special. The top of the mountains were pink with the sunlight hitting the snow
and all slowly comes to life!
I was enjoying so so so much and really being so
happy that I probably didn’t realize that I was getting very cold and very
quickly I felt very nauseous, strange feeling but I knew it was then time for
me to go. I kind of run to the guesthouse and the owner put me next to the
cooking pan! Wow! I was calm as I knew if I had no headache it’s fine… but
still, not a nice moment. I drank two cups of hot water, got warm and felt much
better very quickly. I think it’s incredible how the body can adapt to
different environments and also incredible when it doesn’t how quickly it can
react, as quick as recovering once you give it the right thing!
Breakfast
was super delicious! I followed the guys and took the muesli with apple and hot
milk and it was the best choice ever! I have been missing out on this one!
We
left around 8:30 AM into the beautiful snow land that the cold night left for
us… How crazy, one place one day felt like my worst nightmare made reality and
the morning after it became a wonderful dream come true! :)
It
was warm and I felt like a little dot walking among these huge mountains again!
So happy to be there, to have the chance to have all these incredible
experiences and be surrounded by beautiful people! Absolutely everyone that we
crossed on the way was super, extremely happy. So many beautiful smiles, people
greeting each other with big smiles, wishing each other a wonderful day,
smiling…. During that walk there was such a happy, like happy from the heart
atmosphere that I wished this was how we would all feel every day of our lives!
I
really had a mix of happiness, accomplishment, gratefulness and also pride to
have made it. I really couldn’t stop smiling and feeling happy! Best feeling
ever!
As
we walked down, the snow became ice and then water and then it was all gone. We
stopped for lunch at Dovan and had the most delicious Dal Bhat ever, really it
was so so so good. At this point of the hike I was still not sure if I would
make it to Jhinu… normally people get there on the 2nd night while
going down but we wanted to have only one night on the way down and be in
Pokhara earlier. I just love the Swiss brothers; I think no one else would have
liked that idea! Anyway, there was just a little bit of rain so we moved on. We
passed Bamboo very quickly and then it was time to reach Sinuwa after some
‘’nice’’ stairs up… like lots, lots, lots of them! By now we were walking among
a very tropical/subtropical type of vegetation and we couldn’t stop being
amazed on how in one day we had winter, autumn and spring. Nature it’s the most
beautiful thing ever!!! The last part to Sinuwa was hard, I was very thirsty.
We met a really beautiful donkey. While we were drinking water he approached us
asking for affection. I went to him and caressed him with lots of love :) He was coming to kiss me, so sweet! I also realized I also
kind of need the same thing! Jajaja
And
eventually we made it to Sinuwa where we met the German guy, the only one who
we didn’t take over, the guy its fast! And also the two English fitness guys
who were travelling with a guide from the best named company, called Dal Bhat
Adventure.
Sinuwa
has the best, best, best masala tea you could imagine, sooo good and the people
in that guesthouse are the best ever! Once more the views from here are
beautiful, all these layers of mountains in front and the valley and river
below, simple perfection.
We
took two cups of masala tea as it was just too good for only one. The rest of
the people were staying the night there but we were ready to take the challenge
and move on. We had to go down the river and then up to Chomrong and here we
are talking about 45/50 minutes of staircases up at I would say quite a fast
phase. Once on top another incredible wow! Just to the other side we could see
we came all the way from the other side of the valley. Sinuwa was now in front
of us and a deep, deep later of mountains! Amazing to be now standing in that
new point, a new perspective. The guys made it in 20/15 minutes before me but
hey! I’m so proud! We had a quick water break and time to move on. This time we
had to go all the way down the river again to our final destination, Jhinu! And
we also did faster than expected. With astonishing views again: sunset behind
the mountains, rice fields and deep green color. We came down from 4,130 m to
1,760 m, a total of 34 km up & down the Himalayas… we are exhausted and
proud super stars! :)At the start I was not sure
I was going to be able to keep up with them, but I did and almost at the same
speed. Yay! How much a person can walk it’s just incredible! The mind goes on a
trans, a different universe! I really didn’t see the time pass by, just steps
and beautiful thoughts about the nature surrounding me, it just cannot be
better.
I’m
now in the dinning while the boys are down at the hot springs. I of course
didn’t bring my bikini in my small backpack so just cannot go as I also don’t
have an extra bra! Jajaj It’s fine, I love to have time to write and rest/ I
think it’s the first time I feel so tired and it does feel very good. This
place it’s as full as ABC, very nice, I like it!
I’m
going to lay down for a while before dinner, they will be back 8:30 PM! Really
best day of this ABC trek, incredible sunrise, views, all seasons weather and
vegetation, nature, food, masala tea and above all company! Till later!
ABC DAY #5:
JHINU TO POKHARA
An incredible adventure comes to an end, it becomes a memory
thanks to have lived the moment
Good
morning! It was so sweet, we were supposed to have breakfast at 7AM but we
slept over and by 7:16 the smiley, happy woman of the guesthouse knocked on our
door announcing our breakfast was ready! It felt really homey t be woken up in
that way, sweet people!
And
yes, this is it, this is the last day of hiking in the Himalayas and I still
cannot believe it!
Breakfast
with the muesli, hot milk and fruit and masala tea was truly delicious. The
three of us were very lazy, took very long to finish… with such pain in the
legs…for sure!
We
took long to pack, get ready, be lazy in the sunshine, take another round of
tea and above all truly admire the beauty of the place. To one side, a lot of layers
of green mountains, rice fields, veggies plantations. From the terrace I looked
back and I could see the huge snow peaks of the majestic Annapurna range,
really impressive! Ha! There were two beautiful cats around sleeping very
sweetly together!
The
guesthouse was one of the best ever. I cannot recall if I mentioned this before
but the couple that runs it and ‘’the mother’’ simply cannot stop smiling. They
even painted the walls with colors just to make it a happy place, a different
place from all the others.
Last night while talking with the man, he mentioned
so many times how happy he is when his guests are happy, this is kind of his
duty in life, his role I the world, so, so, so beautiful! I also want t make
people happy and smile in that way! :)
Before
we left we even asked the family to have a picture with us, the memory of this
place will last forever! Power of happiness!
And
yes, finally, I think like past 10 AM we started our last descend to Nayal Pur,
where I started six days ago! Hiking when your legs are so sore its not the
easiest ever I have to say, it does take a bit of time to get the muscles warm
up and get in the flow. And with it of course a lot of mixed feelings of being
happy, accomplished, proud, fearless and a bit sad as this part of the
adventure starts to come to an end…
Beautiful
hike, felt like we were now in another country with more of a tropical feel,
vegetation and yes, it was hot! How crazy, yesterday we were in the snow,
freezing and now wishing I was wearing shorts! Life it’s so so beautiful and
nature makes it even better! :)
We
stopped at some point in a small ‘’hut’’ where Pascal got some yummy small
oranges, we kind of needed a bit of energy today!
The
walk was easy, really no comparison with what we did the previous day, but the
tiredness arrives, so it kind of balances out.
We
made it to lunch kind of half way, wow, I loved the views from here. All green
rice fields in these incredible huge mountains.
The Dal Bhat seemed very
promising as the woman picked up the veggies from the garden and the guys ordered
chicken and we could see them happily going around… I did feel a bit sad about
it… at least the chicken had a good life… but still I don’t like this idea of
eating animals… though I still eat fish… mmmm contradictory! Back to the Dal
Bhat, the ingredients were fresh, yummy! We took a sneak peak into how the
woman was cooking, while of course the man, as all/most Nepali man was just
looking around… We asked to make it spicy, like the locals and we were kind of
hungry! So ‘’tara!’’ all was ready, we made beautiful pictures as the
presentation was really nice and then …
‘’ boof’’ it was absolutely not so good…
disappointment…. Sometimes things are not as good as they look… at least I got
lots of veggies and that was great! We of course still ordered the masala tea
which absolutely compensated for it! And once more, very tired, very lazy, we
started our walk. We could have taken a jeep or bus down from this point but we
are good, strong walkers so no matter what were going to make it until the end!
After
a very short while we made it to the road and from then on it was actually all
the way on the road…. A few buses and jeeps passed by, reminding us we were
getting down to the real world where there is a lot of pollution! On the other
hand, it was nice to have an easy walk. As every day and every time we had
wonderful conversations about life, the future, the past, decisions, nature,
people, happiness, the planet! I have to say it’s really incredible to have
found both Raphael and Pascal in this trip. I just love these two and the trip
wouldn’t have been so good without them! Just incredible how well one can click
with some people and you don’t find these people all the time. I am actually
grateful this did happen! Also shows how many people are kind of on the same
path, with Pascal also trying to figure out what to do with his life, go
travel, motorbike or not, where, how, going back to CH, what to do there… and
also genuine that as myself and even if we’re all strong minded people, it is good to acknowledge a certain level of
fear….fear can be good if it doesn’t paralyze you and I feel this has been the
case so far, embrace the fear!
I did say something that
stick with me which is that we can’t just do nothing and wait and have fun and
hope that a moment of ‘’enlightment’’ comes one day and shows us what is the
right path to take. There is a point where myself and everyone in a kind of
similar situation need to make a decision, a choice and follow our hearts and
gut and whatever it is towards that direction... all these experiences actually
help myself to discover myself, find myself, try new things, break a structure
and system in which I grew up and it is marvelous to be able to do this…. It is
not actually doing nothing, it is actually doing lots of new and different
things that help oneself to define oneself... Ok, I am not making sense
anymore! Jajaj On
our way to Nayal Pur we also talked about all of this... beautiful! It is
wonderful to have met people with whom to have these type of good
conversations!
Just
before we reached Birethanti, the crazy guys decided to go down the river and
for a swim… like yes, crazy as it was just so freezing cold. I mean the water,
and the sun going down so also getting cold but fine, they re guys. So I just
sat on the rocks and enjoyed the sound of the river flowing down, the colors of
the sunset and well, yes, thank you guys for the little show, Jajaja
We
reached the Trekking Permits check point and as life it’s a circle, in this hike
I finished where I started and we went up the restaurant and drank two
wonderful cups of masala tea to kind of close the loop. Pascal and Raphael
finally tried the friend Snickers bar…. Better than the plastic curd version of
the Aussie guy at the ABC, but still not too good for me, I passed this time,
but enjoyed their faces while eating! Joy!
Just
before reaching Nayal Pur we found a jeep and even if it cost a bit more than
the bus we took it as it was getting dark very quickly! As always I asked to go
on the front and this was not a problem J There were other Nepali
tourists and the three of us. It was a nice ride through the mountains in the
dark, so, so, so tired! So, so, so, so happy! We made it to Pokhara and finally
the guys joined me in Royal Guesthouse as the Kiwi one was full. I was so happy
to see them back there, I was already missing their company!
We
had a wonderful Indian dinner with two curries, veggies and tomato panner (love
these things!) and some raita and roti and were very happy! I did miss my white
wine but the lassie with cashews was truly delicious.
And
I just fall asleep, no sleeping bag or three or four blankets on top of me,
tired and very happy…
POKHARA,
BACK TO THE REAL WORLD!
Bring back to life the forgotten little pleasures of every
day life
I
had a wonderful night of sleep and after a very long time I slept in, felt so
good just to be lazy around in bed and so painful to stand up and feel that my
legs are still in much pain, ouch! But hey, at the same it is a wonderful
feeling!
I
took like two hours’ shower and finally washed my hair, wonderful, I took so
much time and had my latest breakfast ever at past 10AM. I went to AM-PM as I
love the organic food here. Took a delicious latte and muesli with fruit and
card, superb! Happy times! :) Good food, makes me happy!
I’m
still thinking if going to Chitwan tomorrow or the day after but it will depend
on what the guys tell me they will do tomorrow once I ask them later on. If
they do something I haven’t done I prefer to stay here one more day as really
enjoy the time with them and as I said before, not always you are lucky to meet
such wonderful people! So, let’s see.
I am
having such a wonderful relaxing day, just doing nothing and a little walk in a
park.
I met the guys while they were having breakfast and then as they had to
do some stuff I went for a walk next to the lake and found a little nice place,
got a masala tea and just had a wonderful conversation with the guy there.
Interesting thing that I am not sure I mentioned before is that many Nepali
people normally don’t know how old they are or when exactly they were born and
hence they don’t celebrate their birthdays. It seems some time ago, and not
sure if it’s the same today, there was no registration of birthdays, so if the
mother would die and the father had no info, kids just don’t know their date of
birth and they have to make it up when they need to do some paperwork.
The
guy here first said he was 29, then 30. The he tells me he was born in 1982 so
I said, like me, you’re 33 then. He was confused, so h took out his driving
license and showed it to me. I was born in 2042, so in 1984… he is 31! :) After that of course I got curious and asked about the
years in Nepal and learnt that today in Nepal we are in the year 2072, new year
for them it’s the 1st of April and they also count the days in a
very different way.
After a while I met Raphael, they picked the place next to
where I was, by chance! We had a nice talk and Pascal joined us later. I
convinced him to try yoga, yes! So we went together to a Hatha yoga class. My first
class tough by a Nepali, Asian teacher. It was a nice class, but for me not as
good as I may have expected it to be. Still, the more I do yoga, the more I
love it. It’s great to try different types, explore a bit, it’s an endless
fascinating topic!
We
had a wonderful dinner in another Indian place where I took Dal Bhat, what
else!? :)
POKHARA… IS
GETTING TO AN END
I just don’t like ends….
Namaste!
We started the day with a wonderful view of the mountains just out of the room
balcony! Happy to hear that Raphael decided to join us for the Ying Yoga class
at 10 AM! The guys devoured a watermelon and Pramila made us masala tea, she
knew we love it! We still passed by our favorite AM/OM Organic coffee for some
coffee before the class.
By
11:30 we were out, heading for the full breakfast! I also had to pass by a shop
to buy my ticket to Chitwan as if I want to see Rhinos I really have no more
time and I have to go… sad, really as I don’t want to leave my ‘’soul mates’’,
I am so so happy like this! It is going to be difficult to say good bye…. While
having our delicious breakfast, Pascal said, change your flight! I was like,
right, yes, so I checked how/if possible to do it and how much would it cost,
but I knew it would be too much. Later on I confirmed it was like 300 CHF plus
fees, which at this pint it is way too much. Then I checked how much would it
cost if I take a new full one-way ticket to BKK, but away, off the charts.
buuuuu, it broke my heart as I they are beautiful people…. But this is life and
also part of travelling, a practice of letting go while keeping all the
wonderful memories….
How
much we enjoyed the breakfast its incredible and my happy smile with the latte
even more… simple things of daily life! :)
We
moved to the hotel for some more relaxation and when I was about to fall asleep
I heard Pascal calling me, time to move! He needed to fix his camera lens so we
took a public bus to the ‘’Real Pokhara’’. Great fun, full. The ride took no
more than 15 minutes, really close but suddenly we were in a completely
different place. Very cool, busy shopping street, full of Nepalese buying
clothing, repairing shoes, eating snacks! It was also full of little stands
where they were buying things for the Diwali festival: dried fruits and nuts,
images and lots of colors.
After a few trials Pascal found a place to fix his
camera and dropped the broken backpack with a show man. We took off for a walk,
bought three Indian sweets and enjoyed the bursting streets! At some point we
found a place for our masala tea. Small place, a bit hidden….non stop locals
would come in and out and some were just drinking Roxy, the ‘’strong’’ Nepali
wine. The wine was delicious and a bit more so, the sweets we got! Good choice
my dear! :)
After
the second tea round and lots of surprised looks from the locals, we left, pick
up the ‘’new’’ backpack and I guided the guys back home! So cool to walk in the
back-streets of a city and see the real life! So different from the artificial
touristic streets! Once more we stopped for another tea! :) This time with no milk but equally delicious!
Almost
reaching the Guesthouse Pascal spotted a tiny restaurant in the back alley of a
street! Raphael and I said, yes, lets go, so local, Dal Bhat there must be
good! I love these guys; I wouldn’t be able to go to these types of places with
many people!
The
‘’restaurant’’ was basically the house of the people. It was a family house
with rooms for at least three generations, the kitchen and in the patio they
made this with just two tables! It couldn’t be better! In my opinion it was the
best Dal Bhat of the trip. Finally, it was spicy! The pickles paste was
incredible, the curry super spicy, the Dal had some seeds, the spinach was
perfect! Honestly, wow! I loved it! We got more tea and chatted with them. One
of the guys was the finance guy, the mum, the cook, the other kid was the sales
and marketing guy! Such a great happy and talented family!
Back
home I started to feel sad, really I don’t want to leave these two…
I
went for a walk looking for an ATM, got a frozen yogurt and walked back home…
with mixed feelings of a a wonderful experience that is coming to an end…
GOOD BYE
POKHARA
I just don’t like ends….so let’s say until next time…
both to my favorite
people and the incredible Himalayas
This
was not a great night of sleep, so many feelings! At 6 AM I woke up and as they
promised, Pascal & Raphael knocked on my door to tell me that they were
going to our favorite place to order breakfast, really so so so sweet! I took
my shower, packed the few things left and joined them… I was so out, jajaj!
They also got some nice pastry due to the Diwali festival! We enjoyed our
breakfast and it was time to say good bye….. it was so hard! I couldn’t even
talk as I really didn’t want to cry in front of them… I just did so as soon as
I turned the corner…
The
bus was packed, but normal, really not as bad as I thought it would be. I did
got the last seat and again, not as bad as I though even if a big Nepali woman
was overtaking my right arm, she was nice!
We
left 45 minutes late, so good and as soon as this thing started moving also my
emotions did…. I think I was just holding on, being strong but at some point, I
needed to let it out!
Leaving
the Himalayas, it’s o joke, the place it’s really incredible… they tough me I
can really do anything I ever want to do, no matter how hard, challenging and
many dangers and obstacles might be on the way, all it’s possible. It reminded
me what Lutr, the guide in Indonesia told me before the river cross: you can do
anything you want to do! I asked how and he simply answered, you just go and do
it! He was so right! Sometimes you need help like the guide in Everest (he was
the worst!), you learn and you do it alone later on, like the ABC…. It is the
strength of mind, willingness and daily happiness as well as some physical strength
that helps in my case. I do feel good to ‘’prove’’ myself I’m strong! :)
I
came to thing I’m just made for these types of things. It is a true passion. If
I think about it, since I was a child I loved to do things, be active, dance,
go to gym… :)
Anyway,
I’m drifting…
I
was in the bus, looking the Annapurna range behind me…. Tears coming from my
eyes! Don’t get me wrong, I am really happy and I get very attached to these
place and above all people. I do know and feel we will meet again, as they said
to me later, somehow, somewhere! :)
I
also think its incredibly beautiful to develop all these emotions. It is once
more ‘’proof’’ that I’m alive. I can not only hike up incredible mountains but
also have incredible deep emotions about the people around me and this shared happiness
its so so worth it. No matter how hard it may be to let it go, it is worth it!
I also know that I am protecting myself a lot more now than in the past, but I
will never, ever lose my emotional heart, this is who I am! :)
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