Friday, September 25, 2015

Flores inland: lonely Kelimutu and lost village of Wae Rebo

Labuanbajo, I arrived here after a long night bus, followed buy a 4hs stop over and two planes… so worth it!!!!! When I saw the tiny propel plane I have to be honest, I was scared, but these plane took me in the most amazing scenic flight ever, crossing all islands between Bali and Flores is a stunning trip!  I could see all the beautiful volcanos from the top, wow and the tiny little islands, surrounded by coral reef…. These got more impressive as we were landing... WOW! I couldn’t believe my eyes, another paradise on earth.


These were my 1,5 resting days.. I took a nice place on the hill above the hardboard with stunning views and a great bed and shower… and did nothing… jaja read, walk a bit and had the most amazing juices and coffee in the 20 days I have been on the road :)

This place is the divers paradise, the best spots on the planet are here! Wow! And I am planning to visit Komodo, Rinca and stunning snorkeling… but later… ladies... the detail here.. and sorry if this sounds bad, in Komodo I want to see the Komodo dragon and hike around… but these incredible animal smells blood… and yep.. with my period now I have to change plans and come back later as chances or attack are higher and so not recommended... jajajaj I know.. I feel awful writing this but this is how it works… mother nature :)


So, in some hours I am going inlands to enjoy the little mountain town of Moni and hike my last Indonesian volcano… for now! :) breakfast its coming… on the amazing terrace... wow!

 




And after the incredible bfas I went for a walk through the local morning market…. What stood out? The deep true, real colors of the fruit and veggies… well.. and the fish smell but so far technology doesn’t allow me to share that J never mind! Friendly people all around the woman with the mango and the man who moved so I could make pics of whatever he was selling…. Which I have no clue what it was, maybe like what I had in Yogya….







And I made it to Moni! I met a nice German couple at Ende airport and we decided to share transport and the coming days! J nice people… kids, 24 and 25 years old, they thought me about biology and the army. I love learning about different worlds!

The way to Moni was an adventure. To start with at the airport, the guy who picked me up couldn’t take more than one person as if not the other taxis would fight him, physically next time. So Claudia and Mathias had to take other car until a few meters outside the airport and then change to mine… after this the road was close due to construction work…. For 1,5 more hours... we we so thirsty! And water was a rip-off so we asked the driver to go to another market…. Then back and waited…

Once on the road it was pure beauty! This is the Flores I had in mind… lush green forest, palm trees and a super cool, chilled, relaxed vive…. The people are different and I think my favorite J they are darker in the skin, had big true smiles with extremely white teeth and they are simply relaxed, with rastas in the hair and listening to reggae music, jajajaj


We went for dinner to Santiago place! The owner came out and explained me about the egg plant juice… as I asked, what?!?! And in fact its like a strawberry, of course I took it and it was delicious! He also explained that all veggies are organic from his garden... I was in love J and took the most delicious gado gado of the time here, absolutely love this place!



Good night at 9PM and up at 4AM… our Bemo was waiting and took us up to the parking of Kelimutu, yes, another volcano… YEEES! Of course I wanted to do it all by walk but was not possible…. We did walk for what?! 20/30 minutes to inspiration point where we met only 10/15 other travelers… the full walk in the dark felt unique, not like Bromo or Ijen full of people. 

This was almost all for us…. And as always… colors start to change to reveal the natural beauty in front of us and wow! Two of the incredible crater lakes come to life with the sun on the back and the mountains around… heaven!!!! Very windy, heaven :)

We stayed there until everyone was gone and got wonderful pics and all for us:) we kept going by visiting other sector with two more lakes and this was my favorite part.. we pass the fence and walked up the rocky volcano, at the edge two magical lakes revealed... one light blue and the other deep green.. as the sun was coming the colores were deeper… WOW, WOW, WOW.. I stood there a long while admiring these beauty, how this is possible?! I just cannot stop of being amazed by the natural beauty of this incredible country!












We took coffee and Claudia some noodles and had a nice visit of the monkeys of the are :) so cute, we are so so much alike!


To go back to Moni we took a hike of 3 hours going through incredible little villages… the land its so fertile…. We saw ananas, papaya, strawberry, cocoa, coffee and lots of animals… green, palm trees and all sort of other world plants… rice plantation, mountains and the sea at the end… this part of the island has it all! Ha! And extremely nice, friendly smiley people coming out of the houses! :) Loooved it… it was hot, hot, hot! 







And we had no money and there was no ATM so even if I wanted to stay one more day.. I had to go back! Stupid me!!!! We drove to Ende.. got the shties hotel ever.. had to ask to change the sheets as they were sooo dirty….. then the girls came in, and we ended in a photo shoot.. I was crying of laughter….



And it was time to go back to Labuan Bajo for another resting day… and this was my favorite flight so far…. Look at these pictures…. Simply, WOW! In 40 mins you go from volcanos to beach and coral reef… no words, just WOW!





And I had some beach, swimming pool, read a book and enjoy writing the blog! I am now off to the ‘’city’’ to check how to get to Wana Rebo tomorrow.. hiking, you guessed!

Till then!

I was very lucky to find someone to join me to Wae Rebo, a wonderful guy from Jakarta who was also trying to find someone to share the costs. It is not easy to find people as mostly everyone here comes for diving, not hiking which is only for the crazy ones :)

Wae Rebo is a village about 4 hours drive from Labuan Bajo, a place you can only access after 3 hours hike up from the little village of Dengue. Some people decide to spend a night in Dengue and hike in the morning, other like us, simply had lunch there and hike after.

In Dengue the place to be is Blasius Monta (+6381339350775). He has a clean and in my opinion big home stay and he will prepare the most amazing lunch with veggies from the garden, noodles and rice. He will also help you to find a guide as due to local traditions you cannot go alone.

Wae Rebo is an authentic old Manggaraian village, where the villagers preserve the way they lived since the old times. The characteristic is the circular conic houses, mbaru niang, where the roof is made of palm fibre and the rest its bamboo and wood in the floor. 

There are about 8 houses among which the biggest one is ore the elder and respected people.

The hike was incredible!!!! It was very humid and a little bit rainy so the forest was hidden between clouds of mist which made it very special. It felt like being in a very strange place, where you don’t really know what is ahead of you. After 3 hours we reach the entrance where normally each person needs to play a traditional music instrument to signalise the arrival. This helps the villagers prepare for you. But in our case the instrument was broken so we went ahead. 

Other interesting thing is that the men here dress with a traditional ‘’ skirt’’ so the guide had to change before we moved on….








And we made it.. and it was just a big, big cloud, jajjaja! We were invited to the main house where a very old and happy woman gave us the welcome. They say when you are there you are not from Argentina or Indonesia or any other place, you are now part of Wae Rebo. I liked the community feeling! We gave a donation and then move to the guest house.

This is the best village I have ever been, like a luxury village. Extremely clean, nice toilets and the floor bed was incredible. Not to mention great food!

I slept early as I had a headache but my new friend told me that the young guy from there was explaining that more and more its hard to keep the young ones in the village and preserve the lifestyle so in the future they may restrict the number of tourist coming in.



And the morning was beautiful, I go out to be greeted by a blue sky and the eight houses which looked like a completely magic place. They people were waking up and starting to work. Almost all they do is plant and harvest coffee. So it was beautiful to see the woman going to the fields to collect the beans, others doing some crushing and some men moving the beans to dry in the sun… and the coffee for breakfast was delicious!














We spent a good time in the village and hike back to Dengue, which was much faster but this time with blue sky it was a revelation of what we have done the day before… stunning views, incredible nature, birds singing and plants fighting for light :)

The road back to Labuan Bajo was long, but stunning with views of the unique circular rice fields of Cancar, islands and the wonderful cotton tree, we stopped for dinner on the road and made it home late night!








Tomorrow is time for me to discover the Flores islands…

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